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Friday, June 10, 2011

Rounding Singapore

Singapore may 27th 2011



Preparing to unload oil

We left Danga bay marina at 3.00pm just after a downpour and motored down Johore and anchored for the night near Tuas bridge . WE planned to catch the outgoing tide at 7.00am the next day and we did. Lady U did the same. It was a gray morning and a pleasant trip past the Singapore firing range, Raffles marina and the industrial west of Singapore. WE were motoring just above idling speed waiting for “Lady u” to catch up as they had anchored to fix their water intake tube. The wind sprang up from the west and we unfurled the jib and hurtled along at 6 knot with the tide and the wind.
Oil drilling platform


We checked off the buoys as we passed and veered off course to avoid the many ships at anchor. Now, just out side the two way shipping channel we passed and were passed by numerous ships. Surprisingly there were a number of fuel tankers discharging fuel to smaller ships.
Southern Island out post of Singapore

The day passed pleasantly with glimpses of sunshine and Singapore jets flying overhead and the ever present Navy patrol boats and the black hulled Singapore police boats patrolling the ever expanding boundaries of Singapore. We caught the wash of a large ship steaming past us ,in the rock and roll of the moment our shower was jettisoned overboard much at the disgust of Annick.
Slow down or you will swamp us



AS we crossed Johore straits the coastline of Malaysia appeared different to what was on the chart. Huge sand drills were mining the sea and dumping the sand and mud on the shore line to extend the land of The Malaysian peninsularas Singapore has been doing for years.


Keeping on course I realized that if I continued I too would be on the sand. I elected to steer left of the sand drills and go between them and a steel fence that had been built several kilometers out to sea. On approaching the fence the depth quickly dropped fro 12 meters to 6 and then 5. I stopped and traversed every which way but could not find deep water.
Singapore looking north


WE anchored in 5 meters of water but there were barges working nearby. Eventually a work boat came over and told us we would have to move.


Some 30 minutes later we anchored a few miles away near the Malaysian navy base which is at the entrance of a river leading to Sebana cove.


The anchorage was very calm ,with no construction cranes and barges shifting sand.


This evening we spent with Nina Simone ,well on our ipod which is connected to speakers and checked our emails. The Broadband connection via a stick is Malaysian and does not work in Singapore.



Next morning with thunder clouds and lightening in the distance we motored back down the river and out in to the Singapore channel. There were boats anchored for the next 17 nautical miles ,some were discharging fuel to smaller tankers tied along side while others were waiting for orders. Most of the ships had some one on watch


as we could see their Radar scanning. We passed several oil drilling platforms that looked like gigantic Mechano type constructions bolted together squatting ,waiting for their next exploration assignment. With all the ships around Singapore I thought about the Singaporean companies that supply good and services to the ships. They must sell millions of hose clamps ,bolts, tools and machinery not to mention food and air tickets for the thousands of crew coming and going.


Overhead jets were patrolling the island along with Caribou and on the water the all familiar black hulled customs boats are dotted around the island about every mile. Also we were passed by two Singaporean Navy patrol boats patrolling the coastline and the ships at anchor. The vigilance of the Singapore Government together with harsh laws


Covering every possible misdemeanor make it a safe place for business .
floating fishing village

Passing through the Singapore Straits I reflected on Malaysia


Malaysia

Brushing the coastline of Malaysia and stopping at various ports to get supplies and sampling the food and services that are available I am beginning to understand the people , their values and their way of life.


Malaysia is a drug free country. The population can go about their business with out fearing and attack or a robbery from a drug crazed person. The death penalty for drug trafficking and use seems to be an effective weapon in the prevention of drug use and the crime associated with the distribution. While alcohol is available mainly in the form of beer that is relatively cheap, drinking alcohol and drunkenness is not part of the culture.


I grew up in Australia and from an early age I embraced the concepts of egalitarianism, democracy and social justice. Coming from a working class family I despised the privileged class, discrimination and the notion that we should remain chained to our station in life.


For me education was the key to unlock the stricture of class and the means to advance into a larger world than the port of Adelaide.


Over time, living in foreign countries and observing how they function I am not so sure that egalitarianism and democracy are the only values for everyone to follow.
this five star resort in langkawi attracts Saudi tourists
Observing the communities in Indonesia and Malaysia, religion, family and community


are the cement that holds things together. Sure the national governments are elitist nepotistic and decisions are more often than not influenced by friendships and financial contributions rather than need.


Social class in Malaysia and Indonesia is clearly defined by the usual factors of family and money with respect flowing upwards and protection downwards.


Paternalism in government and society


mirrors the Muslim religion where the Imam is head of the community of the faithful and the father is head of the family .On the national level the Prime minister or President is head of all the communities within the country.


Sure there is inequality in Asia as there is in Australia between the leafy green suburbs and the treeless working class areas.
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taxi drivers waiting for customers


Here as in Australia racism is alive and well but as an outsider not fully informed there appears to be a respect for race .Penang is a shining example of racial harmony between Malay, Chinese and Indian where each race respects and participates in the religious festivals of each other.


On the economic front a minority are extremely wealthy largely due to privilege, nepotism as well as hard work while the majority earn relatively low wages.


small local fresh food markets
However the price of goods and services is also quite low. Telephone calls are cheap internet access is A15 per month. A bus ride is A40 cents. Fresh food is incredibly cheap a weeks groceries A$100 per week for and expatriate with expensive tastes and may be;


A$50 a week for a large local family. The staple diet is rice, vegetables, fruit and a small amount of chicken or meat. Petrol is A$25 cents per liter.


In Malaysia the government through its constitution is clearly in the hands of the ethnic Malays while business is dominated by ethnic Chinese and Indians.


Singapore just a stones throw away from both Malaysia and Indonesia where the economy is booming and the standard of living is very high with the prices of goods and services three to four times those in Malaysia. Singapore relies on foreign workers from Bangladesh, Myanmar, Nepal and the Philippines in order to maintain its superiority in Asia.


The well educated public service and the tight political control exerted by the government, while democratically elected cannot boast of having a robust opposition party.
typical apartment development in Malaysia


Malaysia with just over 50% of the population being Malay seems to sit harmoniously next to Singapore that has an overwhelming majority of ethnic Chinese. The three water pipes crossing the causeway supply Singapore with its daily water, both sides of the waterway are patrolled vigorously by both Malay and Singaporean boats.